Day 6 (25th June 2022)

I was very excited about today as it involved a trip to a place that as far as I'm aware, no one I know has ever been to. I got up super early so that should any untoward events out of my control get hurled my way, I'd still be on time and all would be well. It was a bit of a shlep from my campsite on the motorway slip road outside Durham, but once I set off, I realised I might be able to sneak in a visit to a ruined castle on the Northumbrian coast. However, once I arrived at the nearest road access to said castle ruin, the number of people in serious walking gear set off internal alarm bells. I looked at the map in the car park and realised that to get to Dunstabrough Castle would involve a 2 hour romp over the cliff path. So much for this idea. 

Northumbria is wild and wonderful, and each time I glimpsed the sea, I wanted to stop and hit the beach. But I had a specific, time-critical appointment at stop #17

THE FARNE ISLANDS

I arrived in plenty of time, only to find that the boat I was travelling on had been refused permission to land on the islands by the National Trust who own them. The boat company offered me a later slot, but that meant I wouldn't be able to fit in my other places - or so I thought. Anyway, they offered me a £5 reduction and a trip on a boat around the islands instead, which I took. The Farne Islands are a twitchers paradise. Squillions of birds including Puffins, Razorbills, Shags, Guillemots, Cormorants and various kinds of Gulls & Terns. We also got to see some cheeky Grey Seals and some Dolphins, and even some jellyfish and a very happy fisherman on one of the islands holding up a sizeable Lobster (NT let him land, I noticed). I almost lost my hat - which the more eagle-eyed amongst you will recognise as a prize bit of merch from Sea Power regular support slot band Penelope Isles. I managed to catch it before it blew off into the North Sea.

I had a short stroll around Seahouses, the village where the boat departed from and then drove along the coast to stop #18

HOLY ISLAND (1)

As you can see, I named this one (1) as there are two Holy Islands in the UK, the other one being off Anglesey. It was always my intention to use just this one - I mean it has Lindisfarne Castle on it for crying out loud, but tide and time were against me. The causeway was under 5 feet of water and there was no way of getting there for at least another 4 hours. Some people were prepared to sit it out, but I wasn't. I did have a quick chat with one couple who had actually heard of Sea Power  and were fascinated by both my T-shirt and my quest to visit all the places on it. I wish I had printed out a little business card with the blog address on it to give to people. Hindsight, eh?

Quick stop to celebrate changing country;

Then it was a pleasant drive through the Golf coast or whatever the Scottish tourist board are calling this coastline to stop #19

TANTALLON

Sadly, the castle itself is currently closed to visitors (I'm really not having much luck today) and as I was getting out of the campervan, my phone fell out of my pocket and part of the glass covering the camera lenses smashed. I was gutted, but luckily it still takes pictures in normal mode. I'll come back to this nightmare later. Tantallon is amazing, peached on the cliff top overlooking some awesome looking islands in the Firth of Forth. On the way out, I had a little chat with the man at the entrance. Turns out he not only had heard of Sea Power but had seen them, albeit about 15 years ago. So that's a first for this trip. Hurrah.

Because I'd broken my phone, I had to make a decision about tomorrow. I was due another boat trip but I can't risk not having a functioning camera on it otherwise ... well, who wants to read a travel blog with no pictures? So, I decided to do a different version of stop #20

BASS ROCK

It does look amazing, and I would love to see it close up and tell you all about it, but instead I'll be heading into Edinburgh to see if I can get my phone fixed.

Campsite is lovely tonight - this is my view:

Allons-y 

Douglas Germinal CCXXIV Brain over and out 

Day 5 (24th June 2022)

Busy day today! Beautiful start, if a little hazy, and hot once again. Just as I was about to leave the campsite, I had a call from Guy. He has decided to come up to meet me in Scotland in his gorgeous Mazda MX5 rather than the ever reliable and sensible Honda Civic. Very much looking forward to seeing him and Morgan. They will be joining in for the east coast of Scotland, the Orkney & Shetland Islands and fingers crossed, over to the north west corner as well.

My first stop wasn't very far away this morning, so no chance of being distracted by another church or ruin. So, stop #12

TYNEMOUTH 

I'd hoped to get closer to the ruin behind me, which is Tynemouth Priory and Castle. The Priory was built in the 7th Century and has 3 Northhumbrian Kings buried there. Unfortunately, it wasn't even 9am and access can't be gained until 10. I was tempted to hang around, but I wasn't sure I fit the rest of my places in so I didn't. 

Once again, I really didn't need any help finding the next place as it is just along the coast. But what I wasn't expecting was the skyline to be dominated by a large spire attached to an equally large mid Victorian church as I drove over the hill. Of course, I had to have a nose. The sign on the door said "push hard" so I did and nearly broke my wrists. It was definitely locked. Humph. Wandered round the side to get another picture of the steeple and when I came back, the door was open. In I went, and discovered the most overtly patriotic church in England!

The church is, rather obviously, St.George's in the village that is stop #13

CULLERCOATS

Yes folks, Sea Power are playing at the Crescent Club in Cullercoats on the 6th August with support from two great bands - Lanterns on the Lake and Hector Gannet. I will be at the other end of the country so enjoy yourselves if you managed to bag a ticket (I believe it has sold out -it does look quite small!)

Cullercoats is lovely. It started life as a fishing village, becoming more of salt and coal port before fading away a bit until gaining popularity with Victorian artists. The beach is protected by a pair of break waters and provides an almost swimming pool like atmosphere. In I went. It was cold though, and I couldn't stay in too long. As I was coming out, files of primary school children were walking down the hill. I did kind of feel sorry for them!

Exactly like the previous place on the Germinal CCXXIV tour, my next destination was the very next town up the coast. So, if you are familiar with the lay of the land up here, you'll know where stop #14 is

WHITLEY BAY 

Another sweeping pale sandy beach attached to a lovely little town. I'm particularly interested in Whitley Bay as my sister and brother-in-law have been making subtle hints that they might end up moving here on their retirement. I hope they do, on the grounds that I'd much rather come here to visit them than where they live at the moment, which as it happens IS on the Germinal CCXXIV Road Trip. 

The next place on the mug/T is IN Whitley Bay. Or rather was. I owe my knowledge of this to Roy Wilkinson because prior to a Facebook post about my trip, I assumed that the place I would be visiting was in Blackpool. Stop #15

TUNNEL OF LOVE

The thought of buying a ticket (possibly £40+) to get into the pleasure beach at Blackpool, then queue up for a ride in the tunnel of love by myself and try to do a selfie was definitely looking like the low point of the entire undertaking! When he told me about Spanish City in Whitley Bay and that the connection was here not Blackpool I almost wept with relief.

Just after I took my picture, I realised that a couple in their 70s possibly were trying to take a picture of the building as well, and that I was in their way. We got taking and it turns out they were also on a musical pilgrimage of sorts, visiting places connected to the music their late son used to listen to (the connection if you don't know is the Dire Straits single "Tunnel of Love" from 1980). We had quite a chat about music and travel. They loved my T-shiŕt and pointed out lots of places they had visited during their long marriage. I called up Guy straight away and shared the story with him, and while I was talking I came up in a massive rush of goosebumps.

My final stop of the day was a little further up the coast and is to a place not on Germinal CCXXIV mug/T but on the back of one of my (twelve) copies of the 7" version of Carrion. I stopped a little way from the town because I wanted to walk into stop #16

SEATON SLUICE 

Another quirky little village, Seaton Sluice is divided by the Seaton Burn, although in the 1600s quite a lot of major work was down widening the channel and deepening the port. It was a major bottle manufacturering village and boats used to come up from London, dump their ballast (which has become a large hill on one side of the river) and load up with bottles to fill up with gin and whatnot. Apparently there is nothing left of the bottle making buildings, but the village has kept a certain  charm (well, either side of the river anyway). I had a late lunch of fish, chips and proper mushy peas before sorting out my really rather embarrassing screw up over the camping gas cylinder from the other day.

It took 3 phone calls and a visit to Gateshead to get it sorted, but I got back £53 so it was more than worth the effort. Going to Gateshead meant driving through Newcastle and Newcastle being an old city meant it more than likely had a cathedral...

Once again, I got chatting to one of the volunteers about misericords and this led to me telling her about my quest around the British Isles. We had what felt like a real good old gossip about fusty old clergy ( I'm looking at you rev. no fun Norwich) and taking opportunities. She was definitely a good fun granny.

Got back to campsite in torrential rain after Gateshead. I thought I'd been really clever in dumping a lot of my excess baggage in the outer layer of my tent, only to find that practically everything was soaked. Rain is definitely going to be one of my main enemies on this trip, but hey, it could be worse I suppose. I could be at Glastonbury. Very exciting place to visit tomorrow so I really hope rain doesn't stop play.

Allons-y 

Douglas Germinal CCXXIV Brain over and out 

Day 4 (23rd June 2022)

 Once again, I'm up, showered and gone before most of my neighbours have woken up. As I was just about to leave, a woman opened one of the side doors and peered into the Alphard with a look of horror on her face. "Oh hello, can I help you?" says I. It took her a couple of seconds to realise she had opened the wrong campervan door. She shut it again without a word!

Now yesterday I went to a well known outdoor equipment emporium and exchanged my empty camping gaz cylinder for a full one. I tried not to gasp as the woman at the till nonchalantly charged my £90 and asked if I wanted to donate 20p to their local charity.  I was too shocked to say no, to be honest, thinking how much I hate both Putin and the petrochemical industry. When I told Guy this, he was equally horrified (probably about my utter gullibility). Trouble is, I had miles to cover today and would rather cut out my spleen with a butter knife (a John Grant lyric) than go back into Hull and argue the toss, so we agreed to put this one down to my travelling learning curve.

Anyway, last night was lovely. I ended up in the Crown and Anchor which is run by a charming couple of gay guys who I ended up telling about my Germinal CCXXIV Road Trip. They were fascinated and asked for a post card, which I will send in about 5 weeks time, long enough for them to have (probably) forgotten all about me!

My first non SP themed stop was going to be Beverley Minster, but the church at Patrington has a 4* review in the Simon Jenkins book so I pulled up there at 08.45. Now what has surprised me about the churches along the Eastern Board is that they are all unlocked, full of treasure and pretty much devoid of vandalism.  Amazing, really.

Beverley Minster is something else again. It is huge, majestic and busy. Although I was watching the clock (because I still had to get beyond the East Riding of Yorkshire and my short term parking ticket) I ended up having another conversation about my adventure with the two volunteers in the gift shop as I wanted a decent guide book. I was still there 15 minutes later, comparing pictures of the bent Norman arch in Selby Abbey with Beverley's leaning pillar. I was sorely tempted to give them my blog address.

The second picture is a video - it's the first time I've attempted this so apologies if it doesn't work. As I was about to photograph the kneeling dignitary of yesteryear, the most un-ecclesiastical music started playing on the organ!

Back on the road and I made the mistake of not setting a coastal destination between Beverley and my first SP themed stop of the day, so I spent two and a half hours driving through non-coastal countryside. This meant I missed places like Bridlington and Scarborough, towns I have never been to. But eventually I arrived at stop #9

SUNDERLAND 

As you can see, I chickened out of going into the city proper on account of being scared of the Monsters of Sunderland. gettit?? The drive to Sunderland takes you on the main road that divides Stockton-on-Tees and Middlesbrough. These have to be two of the most depressingly ugly towns in the country - apologies to any readers who come from/live there. I have to say, I really don't like Stockton-on-Tees despite SP regularly playing gigs there. My first SP gig in Stockton found me almost blind drunk at the end, and I started to stagger back to my b'n'b only to wake up laying in someone's front garden with two local street drinkers beside me.

Enough already! Next place on the mug/T was barely 10 minutes away, and another very pleasant surprise. Stop #10

ROKER BEACH 

 I genuinely had no idea the North East had so many good quality beaches. I was getting desperate for a swim, but despite crowds on the beach, no one was in the water. 

I have also been calling this place "Rocker" Beach, but was reliably informed by Ms Sat Nav that it is pronounced Roker as in "I am Woke"er. I live and learn, and realised that all the people I had spoken to over the last couple of days must think I am a Southern idiot.

I didn't even need Ms Nav for the next destination as it was sign posted already. Stop #11

SOUTH SHIELDS 

As you can see, I once again chose the seaside part of this place name because it too has a gorgeous beach. And this time there was no stopping me - once I'd done my pic, it was trunks on, shirt off and into the sea. 15 years of living with Guy has finally paid off, he hopefully feels vindicated!

I'm staying in the same campsite for two nights this time as there are yet more places in the vicinity to tick off the list. 

It is in spitting distance of the A1(M) and there was a nasty fatal accident on my way in. Hopefully the drivers will not misbehave tonight and I won't get woken up by sirens at 3 o'clock in the morning!

Allons-y!

Douglas Germinal CCXXIV Brain over and out 

Day 3 (22nd June 2022)

 Up and away before all my neighbours. The caravan next to me had a larger square foot area than the first flat I bought in Wembley. I was going to stop in King's Lynn for breakfast as I imagined it to be a pretty little town, but when I looked at my map, I decided to have brunch at my first planned stop for the day, as recommended by Sea Power fan Joe Walker. He is from Louth and suggested a visit to the parish church. To get to Louth, I had to drive through Boston, and one look at the tower, I just had to stop and have a look.

Definitely more French than English, it is astonishingly high at 272 ft, and once inside, was offered the opportunity to climb to the top (365 stairs). Reluctantly I declined, but promised to return one day and see the views across the Fens.

The parish church of Louth is equally spectacular insomuch as it has one of the highest gothic steeples in England. Feeling less rushed, I sat and had a cuppa underneath it. I must point out that my knowledge of churches on this trip has been enhanced by a copy of Simon Jenkins "England's Thousand Best Churches" which was kindly lent to me by my Mother-in-Law Ann, who is hopefully following my blog too!

On my way from here to the first Germinal CCXXIV mug/T place, I was sent off route due to a road closure, and yet again was distracted by another church! This one really was quite literally in the middle of nowhere. 

When I got there, discovered it was the ruin of another St.Botolph (who as it happens is the patron Saint of travellers). Strict signs forbade trespassing. Sometimes, you just have to rebel.

So, with time slipping away and still no Germinal CCXXIV place, I finally made it to stop #7

DONNA NOOK

Sadly, the MoD announced the other day that British armed forces should expect to go to war, and their red "don't blame us if you get blown to smithereens" flags were flying which meant I couldn't get any closer to see if there were any seals lolling around - it's what Donna Nook is most famous for, after all.

After this really quite charming jaunt through Lincolnshire, I had to head over the River Humber (what a spectacular bit of brutal bridge architecture) and stop off in Hull for camping gas and provisions. Turns out I got shockingly ripped off for the gas, which will mean a reluctant return to Hull in the morning to query it. Hull has a terrible reputation in my family - my brother-in-law Ro had a fall resulting in severe multiple fractures and compartment syndrome and came very close to losing his leg. Luckily it was saved by the on-call orthopaedic surgeon who did some amazing mechano work, something Sea Power manager extraordinaire David Taylor is all too familiar with.

Anyway, gore aside, I finally made it to my campsite for the night, which was a 3 mile hike away from stop #8

SPURN HEAD

This was an exhilarating walk along a sandy spur that sort of sticks back into the Humber estuary. It was low tide, so on one side was miles of mud and on the sea side, loads of off shore wind turbines and ships and the very occasional seal head bobbing up out of the water. Way too quick to photograph, and believe me I tried! I did find a big pink ball and a bird of prey that I'm sure members of Sea Power could identify ... if I had a better picture!

As the campsite had absolutely no phone reception whatsoever, I was forced to visit the local hostelry for a pint while completing today's blog for you all.

Allons-y!

Douglas Germinal CCXXIV Brain over and out 

 

Day 2 (21st June 2022)

 Last nights bed looked kind of snug and comfy..

The longest day of the year started just a little too early for my liking - 04.57 to be precise. I couldn't get back to sleep (not that I'd had much; note to self - don't use the single seat as a bed again. Ever) but didn't really want to start my day in case I disturbed my campsite neighbours. That lasted till 06.45 when desperation for a cup of tea finally got me moving. Trouble was, I couldn't light my gas stove and the button spark thing was really loud. I gave up, packed up and headed to stop #4

FELIXSTOWE 

To be honest, I thought Felixstowe was going to be a bit of a dump, what with it being a massive container port and all. Head left on the A14 as you approach town and suddenly it becomes a typical English seaside town. I ended up at the beach to the left of the pier as you face the (ship filled) sea. This part reminded me a bit like the Holywell part of Eastbourne, although the beach was much sandier. 

It had only just gone 8 o'clock in the morning but it was hot. I rang Guy and he suggested I go for a dip. Now even up to a couple of years ago, I would have told him to get off the grass, but it actually was just too nice not to. So I did!

Popped up the hill and into town for breakfast and to have a think about the rest of the day. The Germinal CCXXIV mug & T don't really have many places in East Anglia. I didn't really mind this as I'm not the greatest fan of this part of the country. Well, up until today that is. Previous visits have either been absolute disasters, freezing cold and rainy or big family 'n' friends gatherings (Guy had his 50th in Thorpeness). So I decided to set the sat-nav for Great Yarmouth, see what it was like, and then head in land for Norwich.

The drive up the A12 brought back many happy memories of Latitude (looks like I just contradicted myself there, oops) but as I approached Lowestoft, the town sign gave me a brilliant idea. Unfortunately I didn't stop and take a picture, but it informs the oncoming motorist that Lowestoft is England's most easterly town. Stop #5

THE EASTERN BOARD

 Lifted from the lyrics of "It Ended on an Oily Stage" (what a very fine song that is) are the lines;

 "All across the Eastern Board

Languages were being lost"

I was sorely tempted to go for another swim, but Norwich beckoned. Most of you can guess why.

The cathedral in Norwich is apparently the most Norman in England. It also has one of the best collection of misericords too, but they are kept behind red ropes. I surreptitiously looked  around and started to lift one out of my way only to get caught by a somewhat miserable looking old senior member of the clergy. He pointed me in the direction of a volunteer who could tell me all I needed to know (which turns out to be a book available in the shop all about them.  I ended up buying a copy, but like an idiot, didn'tcheck the price till it had been added to my other loot and I was too embarrassed to change my mind!).

The last time I drove out of Norwich was during the winter of '92 after visiting my brother who lived here for a couple of years. It was the coldest day of the year, dropping to -11°C and snowing heavily. At some point on the southbound carriageway of the A11, a piece of grit shattered the windscreen of my VW beetle. I couldn't see shit. I was too far from Norwich to make turning back worthwhile, so I drove back at about 25mph with my head out of the window and still managed to miss my turning off the M25. I never wanted to return!

Next  on my East Anglia agenda was further inland than I'd intended to travel during this road trip, but I assumed the whole of Norfolk would be heading to its beaches because today was a scorcher. I visited the ... well, I was going to say village, but it turned out to be about 5 houses, a farm or two, a cricket pitch and the most immense church which really is in the middle of nowhere, the church of St.Peter and St.Paul, Salle. What an amazing place!

I had the whole church (the while hamlet actually, the place was deserted) to myself, and guess what was underneath the seats in the choir? 

By now it was late afternoon and still boiling, so I was really looking forward to my last stop of the day. Now, this is not probably the place that is referred to on the mug/T, but the only place I could find that was an exact match was in the Republic of Ireland, and as much as I love Sea Power, I wasn't going over to Eire just for one photo opportunity so instead. Stop #6

THE (SNETTISHAM) SCALP

I'm probably facing the wrong way to be perfectly honest, but I was feeling something similar to what anyone who has ridden through the desert on a horse with no name feels. My plan for a swim disappeared into the distance like a cruel mirage. When the tide goes out here (here being part of The Wash) it goes MILES out. Miles and miles! Between me on the sand and the sea was miles of mud.

Oh well, not far to tonight's campsite (on the grounds of one of her Madge's estates, don't you know?) and dinner. Turns out it wasn't a spark problem this morning as I sparked up with the first cigarette lighter I have bought for 10 years.  Turns out my gas cylinder is empty!

Allons-y 

Douglas Germinal CCXXIV Brain over and out 

Day 1 (20th June 2022)

 After a hectic weekend of me behaving like a super-stressed out adolescent, this morning seemed remarkably calm and almost well organised. So much so that I was ready to go 15 minutes before the 10am start time I'd given myself (for days, I thought I was being wildly optimistic). It had to be 10am as dear Guy starts work then, and I couldn't have left if he was stuck on a call.

Initially my first stop was going to be Canvey Island (not on the T but the name of one of my favourite Sea Power songs), but after turning into Balls Pond Road, I suddenly had a thought about one of the places much further along the Germinal CCXXIV trip which was possibly not going to be there by the time I got there. So, quick change of direction, and I headed up to Upper Clapton, parked illegally and ran across the road for stop #1

ROYAL SOVEREIGN 

The (just in case) is because the organisation who run British lighthouses were going to decommission and dismantle the Royal Sovereign that I am most familiar with that sits out to see off the coast of Eastbourne. So, just in case it isn't there by the time I come round Beachy Head, I thought I get this one in the bag!

Hoping I didn't get spotted by an Eagle eyed traffic warden and hit with a ticket barely out of my home postcode, I reset the sat-nav and headed out to stop #2

CANVEY ISLAND

Probably one of my all time favourite songs come to think of it, this brilliant tune needs to make the live set list again sometime soon (Krankenhaus fest hint hint). Released in 2008, it foretold the future in a way that still brings me out in goosebumps whenever I hear it. To jog your memory;

H5N1 killed a wild Swan.

It was a kind of omen

of everything to come.

and then it goes on to say;

On Canvey Island, nineteen fifty three

many lives were lost

with the records of a football team.

I have to admit to feeling very out of place in the town though. Wandered about for a bit, but got a bit sick of being stared at, so headed back out to the A127 and on to just beyond Southend to Shoeburyness to find stop #3

PHOENIX CAISSON 

So, you see that speck of dark grey out to sea? That is the Mulberry Harbour or caisson, code named "Phoenix" - built during WWII as a portable harbour to take to Normandy via Southsea. Apparently it sank after taking on board too much water, and here it still languishes. 

Now the reason it's a tiny speck is because (a) there are big signs warning you about the dangers of getting stranded and drowning due to rapid tidal surges and (b) it was almost as muddy as Glastonbury 1998 and I only had a pair of timberlands on, so no way was I getting any closer!

Well, that just about sums up day 1.

I did stop off at an old Norman church in Copford as it has some of the best 12th Century wall paintings in England. 

Tomorrow I head off around East Anglia in search of more SP related places.

Allons-y!

Douglas Germinal CCXXIV Brain over and out.